Every winter, UK shoppers buy hats, scarves and accessories believing they are faux fur, only to discover the pom pom on top, the trim around the hood, or the lining inside is real animal fur. This is not a fringe issue. Trading Standards investigations and undercover journalism have repeatedly found real fur being sold with faux fur labelling on the high street, in online marketplaces, and through fast fashion retailers.
If you care about what you buy, here is what you need to know.
Why Does Fur Mislabelling Happen?
The short answer is cost and opacity. Real fur, particularly from rabbits, foxes, raccoon dogs and mink farmed in Asia, can be cheaper to source than high-quality faux alternatives. When supply chains are long and oversight is limited, real fur enters the market labelled as synthetic. The problem is compounded by the fact that UK labelling law only requires garments to declare animal fur content above a certain value threshold, meaning low-cost items can slip through without accurate declaration.
A 2018 investigation by the Humane Society International found real fur on sale in major UK retailers labelled as faux. A 2020 study by Respect for Animals identified similar issues on online platforms. The problem has not gone away, it has simply become harder to trace as fast fashion supply chains grow more complex.
How to Tell Real Fur from Faux: Five Tests
Knowing what to look for can make the difference between an ethical purchase and an unwitting one. Here are five practical tests you can apply before buying.
1. The Burn Test
This is the most reliable test for fur you already own. Pull a few fibres from the item and hold them briefly to a flame. Real fur singes and smells like burning hair, the same smell as when you singe your own hair with straighteners. Faux fur is made from synthetic fibres; it melts, beads, and smells like burning plastic. The difference is unmistakable once you know it.
2. The Part Test
Push the fibres apart and look at the base. Real fur grows from a skin or leather base, you will see a hide or membrane at the root. Faux fur is woven or knitted into a fabric backing, look for a textile weave at the base of the fibres. If the base looks and feels like leather or skin, be suspicious.
3. The Feel Test
Real fur tapers to a natural point at the tip of each fibre. Faux fur fibres are more uniform and often blunt-ended. Run the fibres between your fingers, real fur has a softer, silkier, more varied texture. Faux fur tends to feel more consistent and slightly coarser. This test is harder to rely on alone as high-quality faux has improved significantly, but combined with the other tests it adds useful confirmation.
4. The Price Test
This is not foolproof but it is a useful prompt. A genuine high-quality faux fur pom pom requires good materials and careful manufacture. If a hat costs £8 and has a large, luxuriously fluffy pom pom, ask how that is economically possible. In some cases, it is possible because the pom pom is real fur, which, when sourced from Asia, can be cheaper than quality synthetic alternatives.
5. The Label Test
Check the label carefully. UK law requires garments containing animal fur to declare it. Look for terms like "raccoon dog", "rabbit", "fox", "mink", or simply "fur". Be aware that labels sometimes use misleading terms, "Asiatic raccoon" is raccoon dog fur; "gae wolf" has been used for raccoon dog fur in some markets. If a label says only "100% acrylic" or "100% polyester" on a pom pom that feels unusually soft and natural, consider whether that claim is credible.
Why Certification Matters
Individual tests are useful but they are not a substitute for certified assurance. The Fur Free Retailer programme, run by Fur Free Alliance, independently verifies that brands and retailers have committed to selling no real fur products. Certification is not self-declared, it requires ongoing verification of supply chains.
Sabbot Headwear is the UK's only headwear brand currently holding Fur Free Retailer certification. Every pom pom, every yarn, every trim across the entire range has been verified as free from real fur and animal-derived components. When you buy a SABBOT hat, you do not need to run the burn test. The work has been done for you.
What to Do If You Suspect Mislabelling
If you believe you have purchased a product mislabelled as faux fur, you can report it to Trading Standards via the Citizens Advice consumer helpline (0808 223 1133). You can also report online marketplace listings directly to the platform. Keeping the original packaging and receipt strengthens any complaint.
The more consumers report suspected mislabelling, the greater the pressure on retailers and platforms to take supply chain responsibility seriously. Your purchase decisions, and your complaints when things go wrong, directly shape what ends up on shelves.
Shop With Confidence
The simplest way to avoid fur mislabelling is to buy from brands that have done the work to verify their supply chains.
SABBOT Headwear is currently the UK's only headwear brand certified under the Fur Free Retailer programme. Every bobble hat, beanie, snood, headband, pom pom, yarn and trim across the entire collection has been independently verified as free from real fur and animal-derived components.
Whether you're looking for a luxurious winter bobble hat, a practical fleece-lined beanie, a versatile snood for cold-weather walks, or a stylish headband for everyday wear, you can shop with complete confidence knowing your purchase is genuinely fur-free and vegan-friendly.
Browse the full collection at sabbotheadwear.com and discover premium European-crafted headwear designed for women who refuse to compromise on style, comfort, quality or ethics.
Want additional peace of mind? You can independently verify SABBOT's Fur Free Retailer certification here: